http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814150394
It says PCI Express 2.0
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128387
and this one says PCI Express. Will that be a problem?
No problem, should work fine.
the pci-x ports on that board are actaully the 2.0 anyways... so the answer is yes... good match...
you don't want just plain pci-x16 port with a pci-x16 2.0 card, because then you will have a bottle neck on the board and you don't want a plain pci-x16 card with a pci-x16 2.0 slot because then the card is under performance possible (though it allows the room for upgrade to 2.0 later on but why wait).
Oh I see thank you. Ok one more thing. Im building this computer (Obviously) And I wanna make sure I havn't forgotten Something Or something isnt compatible. So, in addition to the MoBo and the GPU, I also plan to get this Case, This DVD Drive, This Processor, These sticks of RAM, And this Power supply. Does this look to be a good set up? Also this is the first computer I've ever built so is there anything I should be aware of? Thank you
P.S- I already have windows on a hard drive so Im just going to use that.
You're gonna have huge issues switching motherboards on an installed windows version. You're much better off doing a clean install.
A close friend of mine has that case. it works arlright however it sucks up dirt and dog hair better then a vacuum cleaner.
As a helpful guide this is how i usually install stuff (I must have built upwards of 20PC's).
Install the PSU/DVD and HD in the case (best to leave the DVD/HD floating for now incase they require moving slightly).Install the CPU/Cooler and memory on the mobo (a lot easier to do it outside the case, especially fiddly CPU coolers).Insert the Mobo into the case.Add in power cables/connections.Put in Graphics card last (Just because its a big-un and tends to make connecting stuff harder.You might want to think about getting a few fans to suppliment case cooling aswell. Oh, the PSU is way too overpowered for your system. You could happily use a 650w without issue (possibly look into a modular PSU with the extra).
Yes every thing is supported by that motherboard... always check the motherboards HSL (hardware support list) to verify that the hardware is compatible (I checked and it all looked good).
OCZ has a great customer service policy, so if the are any issues, they will be very helpful and you will like the case... lots of room. When it come to DVD burners, find the cheapest you can the onlty difference is burn speeds... What are you going to do abbout CPU cooling...
This is a question I have on my new rig as well. What do you guys use for CPU cooling?
Personally I use Liquid cooling. Though pricewise you're usually better off getting a high end air-cooler. Scythe Ninja, 120...something along those lines.
Well I dont think Im going to over clock the CPU (at first anyways), so I didnt think I would need anything beyond the stock CPU cooler. And I will need a new windows and such you say? Why is that? Could I format my old HDD and just put a new windows on it? Thanks
Definetely. You will need a clean install, not a new license.
Oh, so I wouldnt actually need to buy anything for that? I could just format it and then recover my windows and itd be good to go?
You'd still need the CD key and CD from your Windows, but yah you shouldn't need to pay for anything.
Well, this is something I dont really understand, My computer came with a D drive, which is used for recovery. Anyone know how that works? It didnt come with recovery discs.
Don't worry about if your windows situation, the worst that will happen is it will tell you that you need to activate windows again, just call microsoft and explain you got a new mobo. I recently replaced my mobo and windows didnt care, nothing changed about my installation.
You should be able to use your hard drive that has windows on it, at least, it worked for me.
For CPU cooling, Anything from Arctic cooling is good. I am not very familiar with coolers for the AMD sockets though.
Everything else looks pretty good, good luck with the new system
When you purchase a new computer from HP, Dell or whoever... they create a recovery partition on your harddrive. This is used to set the computer the manufactured install. This is used from severe problems. Some computer companies use this instead of sending you a recovery disk.
Depending on your situation, I would suggest deleteing it and expanding you C drive over it or using it as you own storage drive for back up. But this depend on your current space on C, depends on if you have a instaltion disk as apposed to a recovery disk (which uses the recovery partition).
I suggest liquid cooling myself, they now have these small all-in-one maintenace free liquid coolers that are rather low cost... about as low as a high-end air cooler.
Go do a search at www.newegg.com and look at theliquid cooling systems. Just click HERE
I just removed my water cooler because I have been testing out the Vigor Monsoon™ III LT CPU Cooling System. And I must say i am very impressed with this. For having two 120mm fans this puppy is very quiet. Runs very smooth and it does a great job at keeping my CPU very cool. About 30-32C @ idle and with 100% load for 10 minutes I never went over 70C.
My other PC which has the Masscool 7WA002L Liquid Cooler keeps the CPU at a cool 27C and after 5 minutes running full load using Prime95 hit at 42C... which is very good.
Regardless keeping you CPU cooler will extend the life of the CPU and keep it for better performance when you need it. If your going to be gaming at all... which seem to be the case because of what your seeming to purchase, I suggest5 getting a good cooler for your CPU.
The CPU is a big purchase and you should take precaution to protect it. With a good cooler you can still reach high temps when you game and so do the right thing and get a better cooler. The stock coolers are crap and I would never use one on a CPU, I plan to game on.
agreed
There is some really terrible advice being given in this thread so let me throw this out there in hopes of saving you money and time.
First, the windows situation. You absolutely postively will need to reinstall windows if your new mobo is different in a significant way from your old one. By which I mean, if you are upgrading from an old nForce 6xx motherboard to the one you posted you will have to reinstall. The drivers used for motherboards are very fundamental and are among the first things the operating system loads. This means that when you install a new motherboard, Windows is going to start loading the drivers for the old one. Then it will shit itself, you will get a reboot or a blue screen and then a reboot, and you ultimately will have to reformat and reinstall the entire operating system. That is bad if you have not taken steps to back up your data.
Sometimes it IS possible to switch a motherboard if they are not very different. For example, upgrading from a P43 to a P45 should work. You might even get a P35 to a P45 to work. But don't bet on it. Back up and be prepared to reinstall the entire operating system. And even if it does work I would suggest a reinstall, because there may still be old drivers that cannot be replaced because the computer needs them to be functioning and which will cause system instability down the road.
Second, the cooler. The water cooler recommendations are nonsense. It will not extend the life of your CPU in any notable way. It is completely theoritical to say that in the first place. I've never seen any study or test which demonstrates that a CPU with a water cooler lasts longer than a CPU with a stock cooler. Secondly, even if it did extend your CPU life - who cares? You're going to be replacing it in 3-5 years anyway, and a CPUs come with a warranty of three years. Save yourself the money and buy a stock cooler.
A CPU is not even a big purchase these days. The prices I'm seeing on that Masscool product are between 79.99-99.99. That's at least half of what you should be spending on a CPU in the first place! If you buy one of those it isn't because you want to protect your investment, its because you feel your e-peen needs to grow.
Just FYI, you can try to boot the new motherboard with the old OS drive. If it is Vista or Windows 7, the odds are it will boot up, install new drivers, and work. It is far less likely with Windows XP but can occassionally happen.
However, even if does work, I recommend you then run the OS install disk to do an in place "upgrade" which will keep all your data and settings, but give the old OS a once-over full refresh for driver detection, etc. This should guarantee you have all the right system level drivers installed.
If it doesn't work, you can always do a clean install, or even an upgrade from the boot disk.
But anyone who argues that you HAVE to install clean to make it work is thinking with a Windows XP (or older) mindset. Vista and Windows 7 have an entirely new way of installing the OS that eliminates the issues from past Windows Operating Systems.
The new Vista+ install code also has the benefit that there is no longer any advantage in speed, compatibility, or performance between a clean OS install or an in-place upgrade (which was NOT the case with 95/2000/XP).
Afraid i have to disagree (on most stuff).
As Excalpius pointed out there is little problem with Using a HD without formatting first. As soon as the OS boots its a simple case of reinstalling the relevant drivers. Its been many a year since you positively -had- to format on a Mobo change.
Liquid cooling IS valuable. Silicon (which the CPU is made from) increases its conductivity as temperature increases, this can result in electron migrations at higher temperature. Thermal fatigue can lead to cracks forming in the transitors therefore the cooler the CPU is kept, the lower the migration possibility and the smaller the temperature window so less fatigue. There is no problem with ensuring the best operating atmosphere regardless of how quickly you'll be changing systems (not to mention you're assuming the cooler won't fit the new one, thereby increasing its longevity).
And a CPU might not be a big investment for you, but for a lot of us its one of the most costly investments we make so we want to get the most performance and time from it. Don't assume we all have money coming out of our ears.
Well, I've *never* run across someone whose CPU has broken down because it wore out... And I know quite a few people who keep their computers running for over 5 years with regular air cooling. So liquid cooling from that point of view is entirely pointless, the computer is out of date before the CPU is worn out anyway. Liquid cooling is for overclocking enthusiasts, if you don't do that, you just add a pretty risky point of failure. If a fan breaks down, you'll probably not be worse off than computer shutdown. If on the other hand liquid pours out over your gfxcard, it's likely toasted.
Right... But don't come to me complaining about random crashes and issues after you've "upgraded" that way... My experience (and I have *alot* of it) is that the only OS that handle a motherboard upgrade well is Linux, because it loads the right drivers with plug & play from first boot, and doesn't install anything new to do it.
I've done enough computer service on Vista to know that it's as crappy and unstable as any other Microsoft OS when installing hardware that require new core drivers. Possibly it can be stable if changing to a motherboard with a similar chipset, but I wouldn't bet on it.
Well thats just because you picked a bad liquid cooler. Most coolants are anti-corrosive and non-conductive.
Granted I wouldn't plunge your entire PC into a vat of the stuff, but to claim something like it would toast a graphics card from a spill is about 5 years out of date.
I had a CPU a couple years ago, with plenty of air coolers in the case and stuff and that puppy stopped working. I took it out to examine it and lo and behold, big ass burnt mark all over it. But that prolly was a fluke...
Maybe. Maybe not. What happens - even with Windows 7 or Vista - is that Windows boots up and it says, hey! What kind of SATA controller is here so I can communicate to my hard drives? What kind of northbridge and southbridge are we working with here? Then it loads drivers to anwser those questions. Those drivers are specific to certain chipsets, so if Windows loads and starts loading drivers for a nForce chipset but really what you have in it now is a P45, well, it will probably BSOD. It will probably BSOD because these are really critical parts of the computer. They have to be up and running for Windows to actually function, so changing them on the fly is out of the question.
Now, sometimes it will work, and as said it is most likely to work when the old chipset and new chipset are part of the same family.
Great, you just gave me some information that wouldn't even pass muster on a Wikipedia. What I'm looking for you is actual proof - not theoritical musings - that failure to use liquid cooling will cause a notable "shorter life" for a CPU. How much shorter? How does temperture cause decrease in life? Does making a CPU run one degree hotter shorten its life by one year? By two?
But while we're musing, let me tell you what I see. I see offices. Hundreds of offices with thousands of computers. Most of these are computers that are at least three years old and often times over 5 years old or more. These are P4s and sometimes even P3s. They are running on stock coolers in cases with a single exhaust fan. And you know what? They are not failing. In fact, I've never heard of a CPU failing in any of these machines.
Oh, I get it. So what you're saying is that if money is tight, you need to spend an extra $80 dollars to "protect your investment". Do you understand how ridiclious that sounds?
That would indicate a sudden failure of the cooling solution, however, not the CPU being cooked over a period of years.
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